Encyclopedia of Medieval Dress and Textiles

Traditional garments worn by officials of the Christian Church when conducting services. Specific clothing for the clergy originated in Late Antique culture with simple tunics and outer garments. By 1100 most of these garments retain Latin-derived names and have distinct purposes in the liturgy: the closed chasuble for celebration of Mass; and the open cope for processions and other ceremonies. See also Liturgical textiles; Monastic dress; Nuns and monks, convents and monasteries. Gale R. Owen-Crocker

Vestments represent ecclesiastical rank among churchmen, particularly of the major orders, and the investiture of each order actualizes the original meaning of 'invest' by including the provision of the appropriate items of apparel during the specific synactic ritual intended for each ordination. Early medieval ecclesiastical hierarchy for the major orders in Western Christendom consisted of the roles of deacon, priest, bishop and archbishop, and each rank wore vestments peculiar to his individual status.Such ritual attire most probably had its origins in garments and social in…

The growth of urban centres and increased commerce in 12th-century Europe changed secular and religious life. The papacy, concerned with conformity within the Church, worked to combat laxness among the clergy in deeds and in appearance. The reforms begun under Pope Gregory VII (r. 1073-1085) continued under Pope Eugenius III (r. 1145-53) when both St Bernard in his 'De Consideratione', and Gratian in his canon law Decretals, condemned impropriety in dress cut, colours and jewellery worn by the clergy. In ecumenical meetings at the Lateran Palace of 1123, 1139 …

Effigies, incised, monumental or sepulchral slabs and brasses were all figurative means of commemorating the dead that were popular with the élite, gentry and some of the middle ranks in the 14th and 15th centuries. Effigies and brasses co-existed, with the former surviving in greater numbers for the period up to the 15th century and the latter being more prevalent in England than on the Continent. The value of effigies and brasses for the study of clothing and armour Effigies and brasses are a key source for the study of clothing in 14th and 15th century England because of the quantity,…